Wednesday the surf was forecasted to be BIG!
The plan: Surf the Wharf.
The Wharf is only surfable when the buoys are 20 feet or more. Sadly, Wednesday morning, the buoys were hovering at 13 feet, with onshore wind, resulting in choppy seas. In surfing, this is bad.
The wharf, however, was clean, but small. Being the surf snob I am I almost didn't go out. Especially after the adrenaline producing, back bending (not the good kind) surf, of the day before.
Thankfully, my surfing bff was there, and she inspired me to paddle out. She has a great attitude, no matter what mood the ocean is in, causing some surfers to wonder if she's on something.
And guess what, Internet? It was super fun! Even a bad day of surfing is better than no surf at all. Woot!
Besides, it was my first time surfing Da Wharf, and it's always fun and exciting to surf a new spot. But the best part of the session was the cool surfer dude, who lent his longboard to a beginning surfer girl, who was having zero luck catching waves on her shortboad.
Ok, so it was my idea, "Dude you should let her ride your board, she'd be stoked," I said, but he didn't have to go along with it. Not only did he lend her his surfboard, but he pushed her into about 6 or 7 waves. And she stood up on every single wave!
It was good times, Internet, watching a newbie ride waves. She was stoked on surfing. Her vibe was infectious and reminiscent of my first ride on the oceanic water roller coaster, twenty something years ago.
It's been said, "only a surfer knows the feeling," (of surfing) and I believe it's true. It's always a delight to watch a beginner experience that feeling for the first time.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
The Wharf
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2 comments:
wave hog turned surf inspirer...i like it :)
Oh no another person inspired to crowd up the lineup here . there and every where ! My "Aloha Spirit" is already streched ! But i appreciate your "Spirit Of Sharing" ! Dante
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