The best time to get back in the water after a shark attack is right away. For some surfers that means surfing the same day as "the incident," as one surfer referred to the attack not wanting to say"shark," while in the ocecan. For this surfer it's surfing the day after "the incident."
Is my eagerness to get back in the water because I'm dedicated to surfing? Or is it because surfing is my crack?
Answer: "Hello my name is Wendy and I'm addicted to surfing."
I text my BFF, "Surfing?????"
"Yeah!" she texts back.
Fortunately, she's a surfing crackhead, too.
"Yay!!!!" I text.
Surfing is better with friends, especially after "the incident."
Lady Gaga and my surf stoke were drowning all shark fears as I drove to the beach. Unfortunately, the first thing I see when I pull up to the beach is the shark warning sign, and an official U.S. Fish and Wildlife vehicle, complete with an officer staring out to sea, presumably looking for menacing sharks.
My balloon of surf stoke was quickly deflated as the memory that I share my playground with a bad mama jamma, the great white shark, bludgeons my brain.
Before I could change my mind, I quickly put on my wetsuit, sunscreen and waxed my surfboard.
"How are the waves?" asks an approaching Surfer.
"I don't know," I say. "I didn't look at it. I'm just paddling out."
The waves were small, but fun. My friends were out. And we didn't see any big fish. I'm glad I surfed. Besides, I hadn't surfed since Wednesday, and I needed a fix. :)
2 comments:
get some for me...
im in the great white north
far from the great whites
and i miss the waves.
christina
Okay!
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