Saturday, March 6, 2010

The Cross

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The Cross (right on the groin)

A surfer must have at least two landmarks while surfing. One to line up with on land, so she knows she's not drifting off the peak, north or south.

The second landmark tells her how far out to sea she is. Too far out, and the waves will be impossible to catch for they won't be breaking. Too far in, and she will be taking most waves on her head, instead of under her feet.

The marker on the jetty, is a foghorn and beacon for boaters entering the harbor. For this surfer girl, it's the marker that tells me how far out to sea I am.

On small days, I sit just inside of the what I call The Cross. And on bigger days I sit just outside of The Cross. When, I refer to the marker as "The Cross," to fellow surfers, they often respond with, "huh?"

But, from the angle I see The Cross from, while surfing, it truly does resemble a cross in its pattern. And surfing is my church.

When the world ain't right, I go there, feel my body, become one with nature, and know everything is, as it should be.

Amen and praise the Sandbar.

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