Surfers live for danger. Well, what regular earth bound humans consider dangerous, anyways.
We live for signs and news reports that warn folks "to stay out of the water." I know to some people (read my Mom) this seems crazy, but for surfers, it's how we have fun.
Besides, we get in our cars and drive everyday, don't we. Honestly, for the risk it entails, driving isn't even all that fun. Yet, we do it, just to get from point A to point B.
Don't get me wrong, I never let myself get too comfortable out in the ocean. I know things can go from bad to worse, fast, out in the water. I know my limits.
But I'm not going to let my fear stop me from having a bit of fun.
2 comments:
That's how I feel about skiing fast. Too bad I live so far from mountains now.
I don't like skiing fast, but I do hope you get to the mountains soon! :)
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