Surf, Surf, Surf

I have a feeling, these people (in the video) would sing for free. Which is exactly how I feel about surfing. I would totally surf for free. Uh, Wait a second. Actually, I already do surf for free, so never mind.

When I tell people, I surf, pretty much everyday, waves and schedule willing, the response I get is, "do you compete or something?"

"No," I say. "I don't even like contests. All that waiting around to surf, avoiding over surfing, so my arms don't turn to jell-o mid-heat. I'd rather just go surf, until my arms fall off."

I love surfing as much today, as the first time I caught a wave over 24 years ago. And even though it may never make me rich, it makes me happy. Though it may send me to rehab, for the more I surf, the more I want to surf. Surfing is my crack.

Surfing gets me in my body, and in the moment. Surfing is my workout and my meditation. Without waves, life on this planet would be so much harder for me. I feel blessed to have surfing and lucky to have the TIME, and live in a place that allows me to dance on water daily.

I know surfing isn't for everyone. But if I could have one wish it would be for everyone to have their own version of surfing, whether it be music, acting, art, gardening, they can escape to on a regular basis.

Everyone deserves to play everyday. Having fun isn't just for kids, and it may be the true fountain of youth. An activity shouldn't have to bring a person monetary gain, to have value and importance.

0:-)