I Need A Vacation From My Vacation

I think this was taken on Saturday, the best I've surfed Trestles.
I look very happy.

Just got back from a week in Southern California. We stayed within a mile of one of my favorite surf spots, Trestles located in San Clemente. Translation: I'm tired.

I was up everyday very early, usually around 4 or 4:30am to go surfing, so I could be back early to visit family. I was very busy.

I did sleep in til 6 am two times. Once on purpose, the day we went to Disneyland and I didn't even surf. Shocking, I know.

Then the day after Disneyland, I accidentally over slept, until 6am. I was struck with a severe case of Disneyland hangover. Let's just say Mickey drank me under the table. Who knew a mouse could drink so much?

It was a very fun trip. We all loved seeing and reconnecting with family. And the waves, well, I think they called it the swell of the decade or something. Saturday was the best day by far, but the other days were fun. I logged about 19 hours of surf in 6 days and I'm stoked.

The first few days of swell were the biggest. Friday, the first day, I got caught inside by a large set wave, drug in 100 feet, and lost my right contact, all before catching my first wave.

"Some one's gonna die in the ocean today," I say to my friend.

Unfortunately, I was right. A body surfer died at the Wedge, only a few hours after I uttered those words.

I have never been so worked or paddled so much, in Southern California. I had to tell the ocean several times, "you're being rude, please stop trying to drown me, already."

Sorry Mom, I know that's upsetting, but look on the bright side, I'm still here to bug you and tell you, "you are severely technologically challenged. And I love you."

Anyways, I need a vacation from my vacation so I'm not writing the blog today. Wait a second..........