Monday, December 29, 2008


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Anyone who has ever had a conversation with me regarding surfing, but doesn't surf themselves, probably thought I sounded just like the guy in the video. And probably regretted bringing up the topic of surfing with me in the first place.

The thing about people who say they surf, is this. A person's surfing skill level cannot be measured by their words. As I watch the video of Surfer Guy, as I'm laughing, I'm also wondering can that guy even surf? Or is he just buoy, someone who sits in the lineup catching few if any waves at all.

Even when Ms. Jennifer Nettles claimed in an interview, "oh but I do surf." I was like what? A few surfing lessons and a video of someone barely getting to their feet on a longboard, hardly a surfer makes. Excuse me, one moment, I need to go shove my surf snob in the closet.

Okay, I'm back, I think.

I used to get that all the time. Anytime, I walked into a surf shop where I didn't know anyone, it was assumed by the snobby surf shop employees, typically guys, that I didn't surf. They thought I was tagging along with my boyfriend. Once they realized I surfed, they assumed I was a buoy or worse someone who got in their way. Surfers refer to the type of surfer that can't surf, as a Barney or a kook.

But that was a long time ago. When there weren't many professional female surfers, at least, they weren't visible in the magazines, like they are today. And there weren't many female surfers in the line up in those days either.

While I used to be the only surfer girl in the water, often times now there are four or five us. It's nice to have more estrogen in the water. We tend to smile. Laugh and have fun. Twenty years ago I would have never thought I would have girl friends, who surf. Wow, that is some sort of major miracle of Goddess.

Some girls are super competitive, maybe because they feel like they have something to prove to everyone. And some guys think the girls are jealous of each other and say things like, "wow that new girl is taking over your spot."

But I have never felt that way. Nor have I understood why someone would even think it, but I suppose guys must worry about that a lot. They worry about someone being better than them. Guys are very competitive. I think that's what makes them get better at surfing, anyways.

Let's face it there is always someone better than I am. Until the day I surf like Kellya(not a typo, just how Vinny used to say his name) Slater I'm not surfing the best. But I try not to compare myself to other people, male or female. When I surf I focus on breathing and being in the moment, rather than people.

Although a great surfer might inspire me to surf better and charge harder. But that person is never the super aggro grumpy great surfer, hogging all the waves. It is often and frequently the happiest person in the line up who inspires me.

And here is one my favorite most inspiring friend who surfs. Wow, a friend that surfs, amazing.


Anonymous said...

You do know your surfing talk is my favorite. I feel I'm out there with you re; something I will never do.....never say never right.
When I lived in San Diego I moved before I was going to start my lessons for whatever that thing is on the surfboard...oh yeah windsurfin on the bayside. And, hey.....since you are one of the only cyber queens I know I was watching a talk show and these guests were making money on youtube with their videos. Is that real? who pays that? if everyone in the world reads your blog do you get money??? is that the goal of all the bloggers out there? I thought everyone just had something to say. See ya soon
ms anonomus

Anonymous said...

LOL, ok, that "dude" makes everyone think surfers are retarded. Today, some annoying guy in the water kept saying.. "YEAAAHhhh I got my mojo back! I got my mojo back" everytime he caught a wave. But he wasnt talking to anyone, just talking loud enough so that everyone could hear him. I was just thinking, "SHUT UP and stop sitting by me". Anyways, surfing with guys is never like surfing with girls. It always way more fun to see your girls throw a turn better that the average guy in the water. And gurrrl, you don't sound like that guy... you're more like an analyst.. "yes, I think you need to use gravity less and put more weight on your back foot to get a more gyroscopic motion (LOL Im making stuff up).. and then WA-BASH! WA-BAAAAAAAASH!"

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