Day of Rest

Carlene Daniels floatin' it.

Now that Gio goes to school five days a week, I can surf everyday! In theory anyways. And as of Tuesday, I had surfed seven days in a row. Which means my baby belly is shrinking y'all! It also means I'm kind of sore, tired and surfed out. I'm not looking for sympathy here, I planned my life this way.

Some people prefer being rich in money, I prefer being rich in waves. And when it comes to surfing, I can't put a price tag on pure joy and utter happiness, now can I??? No.

Back to my point. Which is, even I need a day off from surfing. Only it's hard to do that when the waves are good because I'm a crackhead when it comes to good waves.

When I got to the beach yesterday morning, the conditions were junky. There was a new swell forecasted for today, so I figured it would be a good opportunity to take a day off from paddling.

As I was walking on the beach, on my surfing day off, I took a few videos of my friend surfing. It was almost as fun as surfing myself! Yep, that's me cheering in the background. Did I ever mention I love surfing? Because I do.